How did escoffions found their way to the Antonio Marras’s FW24 Runway?
“In an era, where most Royal women wore makeup that was potenally lethal or hardly ever wore any makeup at all, Morandin has been observant in his medieval art studies and created this pious, reserved and slightly anemic look in a straight contrast to the powerful, lightning-sharp eyeliners of other models.”
History is written by the winners as they famously say. Antonio Marras took the fashion world on an infatuating story, through 14 th century and showcased his collection, that had been the source of inspiration to the designer himself. The stage was ready. The selection of antique doors made into a fascinating, tower-looking pavilion, was the centerpiece of the story of the past.
The legend of Eleanor d´Arborea, heroine Princess of Sardinia. A lot has been lost over centuries and merely the myth and mystery survive of this rebellious and the last indigenous ruler of the island. In his new collection, Marras takes his vision on her story and breathes new life into it once more – taking the “tale as old as time” to a more contemporary level.
Not only was the whole collection a tribute to an era, with the flower patterns, armory silhouettes and embroidered brocades, the delicate beauty created by Eugene Souleiman (hair) and Riccardo Morandin (makeup) was supporting the original narrative.
Tight and sleek hair was braided and tied under models’ chin as to mimic the original escoffions, that used to cover the usually very long hair. Low squeezed buns, braids of many sorts and dramatic textures with the razor-sharp mid-sectioning, created an illusion of a head piece that had cultivating prestige and strong status.
In an era, where most Royal women wore makeup that was potentially lethal or hardly ever wore any makeup at all, Morandin has been observant in his medieval art studies and created this pious, reserved and slightly anemic look in a straight contrast to the powerful, lightning-sharp eyeliners of other models. Rosy pink cheeks and otherwise quite bare faces reminded us of the chivalric times and the court of Eleanor as it might have looked back in time and by the stroke of a brush – would look today!
The most eye-catching of all was Tanya Madisson, the model, wearing shiny, glued-on piercings, covering almost her entire face. The light caught the dangling metal in perfect angle, as this powerful medieval maiden glided smoothly through runway – unapologetically, as only a true warrior Princess would do.
Our faces and gestures are used and oVen registered as part of our communication with one another. Present-time models and their expressionless and emotionless affronts were a step back in time as if one could have beheld the original paintings from the times passed. The show’s beauty was pure and seamless, and reminded us of the original storyline, if ever we forgot ourselves to the dynamic dimensions of the breathtaking designs. Bravo!
Written by Tom Schevelin-Repnau
