Dressing the Woman, Not the Ideal: Dima Ayad on Fashion, Truth, and Belonging

Few designers have challenged the fashion system from within quite like Dima Ayad. Her eponymous label was founded not to chase a trend, but to fill a void — to give women of all sizes a place in fashion without compromise. More than a decade later, Ayad has become one of the region’s most distinctive voices, a designer who insists that clothes should serve the woman, not the other way around. From her base in Dubai, she has built a brand that is both local and global, both celebratory and pragmatic, proving that inclusivity is not a niche but a philosophy of design.

Author: Your brand began as a response to exclusion. Looking at today’s fashion industry, where do you think inclusivity is still most absent — and how do you plan to address it?

Dima: I think the concept of inclusion has, in many ways, become another form of exclusion. It’s still treated as a niche or a trend, rather than a standard. One brand alone can’t shift the industry, but we are doing everything we can to keep the conversation alive and push it forward. For me, it’s not just about a movement — it’s about the reality that women need clothes they can actually wear. That necessity should never be optional.

“Inclusion should never be a movement. It should be the standard.”

Author: Many labels treat extended sizing as an afterthought. For you, it is the foundation. How does designing for a spectrum of bodies change the creative process itself?

Dima: For me, designing for all shapes and sizes isn’t a burden — it’s the enjoyment of the process. I begin with all kinds of women in mind. My philosophy is that if a piece works beautifully on the larger size, it will almost always work on the smaller one too. That’s how I build collections. Practically, I always create two sample sizes — one in XXL and one in S — and then we refine from there. It ensures the clothes are not only inclusive, but also flattering across the spectrum.

Author: You’ve built a brand rooted in Dubai but visible globally. What do you believe the Middle East can teach the fashion capitals about redefining beauty?

Dima: I’m proud that everything we do is made in Dubai. What the Middle East can really teach the global consumer is that change is not only necessary, it’s exciting. There is so much more than the standard orientation we’ve all grown used to from global brands. Here, we bring a different edge and a unique twist. Growing up in Dubai — a truly multicultural city — means you naturally tap into many markets at once. That perspective, that blend, is something only this region can offer.

Author: In partnering with Malone Souliers, you placed a regional vision alongside a global luxury house. What did that collaboration teach you about the power — and the limits — of cross-cultural design

JDima: Cross-cultural design is something truly special. It proves that products can be both local and global at the same time. That balance is what makes collaborations like this so rewarding. For me, creating it was pure joy — bringing two perspectives together and seeing them merge into something new.

Author: Some designers design for the runway; you design for the woman herself. When you imagine her stepping into your clothes, what is the first feeling you want her to have?

Dima: I design for the woman, always. I think of her in every moment she lives — whether she’s in the office, going to a party, on her first date, attending a wedding, or even walking down the aisle at her own. I design with those moments in mind, because those are her real runways. Her life is the runway, and I want my clothes to celebrate every step she takes on it.

“Her life is the runway. My clothes should celebrate every step she takes.”

Author: Fashion weeks often emphasize spectacle. How do you ensure that your collections remain grounded in real women’s lives while still commanding the stage?

Dima: I make sure the collection feels like a spectacle, but a grounded one. Whatever you see on that stage, you should be able to imagine yourself wearing. For me, that’s the essence of being a designer — creating a moment that excites, but also translates.

Author: As a businesswoman as well as a designer, what has been the hardest structural barrier you’ve faced in scaling an inclusive brand — and how did you overcome it?

Dima: The hardest barrier is maintaining what people call a work–life balance, while also figuring out how far you leap for growth. For me, inclusivity has never been the reason I feel stuck — it’s the reason I keep going. Women all over the world are part of that story, and they’re the reason I do this. The real challenge is scaling safely: how to grow without the sharp hikes, spikes, or declines that can destabilize a brand. That’s what I think about every day.

Author: Awards and recognition validate a career, but they don’t define it. What personal milestone meant the most to you — a moment that may never appear in press headlines?

Dima: For me, milestones aren’t defined by awards — they’re defined by the number of women wearing the clothes. One of my proudest moments was when we sold a thousand dresses, and another was when a single design sold over 500 pieces. Those are the kinds of milestones I celebrate. Expansion into new retailers and segments has also been incredibly meaningful. My form of validation has always been seeing more women around the world wearing Dima Ayad — that’s what defines success for me.

Author: You once filled a gap in the market. Today, you’ve helped to change it. What gap do you see now — in fashion, business, or culture — that you feel compelled to address next?

Dima: Today, the real gap is the pressure to follow trends. I feel strongly that women shouldn’t have wardrobes built only around what’s fashionable in the moment, but around timeless elements that last. Sustaining that kind of fashion is what I want to push forward. The other gap is beyond clothes — it’s about self-image. I want women to know that it’s okay to be yourself, without filters or FaceTune. You are enough as you are, and that should be celebrated just as much as what you wear.

“You are enough as you are — that is as important as what you wear.”

Author: Looking ahead twenty years, what would you like “Dima Ayad” to stand for — not just as a label, but as a philosophy in the global fashion conversation?

Dima: In twenty years, I want “Dima Ayad” to be remembered as a brand that started in Dubai and went on to make a global impact. I want it to stand for the idea that real change can come from here — from the Middle East — and that authenticity has the power to shift an entire industry. For me, the philosophy is simple: you can create from a place of truth, celebrate women as they are, and still redefine what fashion looks like on the world stage.

Interview by Oona Chanel